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The Almaz Table

Hummus: The Simplest Dish to Get Wrong

Why good hummus is harder than it looks: chickpeas, tahini, lemon, texture and temperature, and how the hummus at Maison Almaz in Canggu is made and served.

· Maison Almaz

Hummus and mezze at Maison Almaz, Canggu

Five ingredients. Chickpeas, tahini, lemon, garlic, oil. There is nothing to hide behind, which is why hummus tells you more about a kitchen than most dishes with twenty components. Here is what goes into ours, and what to look for anywhere.

The chickpeas

Good hummus starts with chickpeas cooked past the point most people stop: soft enough to crush between two fingers with no resistance. Undercooked chickpeas give a grainy paste no blender can fix. Some kitchens skin them; the result is smoother, but the real difference is cooking them long enough in the first place.

The tahini

Tahini is not a garnish here; it is the second main ingredient. It gives hummus its body and its slightly bitter depth, and it is where cheap hummus usually cuts corners. A hummus that tastes only of chickpea and lemon is missing its tahini. A hummus that tastes of sesame and has a silky, almost whipped texture has enough.

Lemon, garlic, salt

Lemon lifts; garlic should be present, not raw and shouting. Salt is the one most kitchens under-do. The test is simple: hummus should taste complete on its own, before the olive oil, before the paprika, before the bread.

Texture and temperature

The two things you can judge in a second. Hummus should be smooth, with no dry edges, and it should not be fridge-cold. Cold flattens everything. We serve ours at room temperature with warm pita, which is the whole pairing: soft dip, hot bread.

How we serve it

At Maison Almaz, hummus is a starter on its own (65K, with warm pita) and it anchors the Mediterranean Mezze Platter alongside olives, falafel and a cheese board. Order it first and let it sit on the table while the rest arrives; it is the dish people keep coming back to between everything else.

Hummus is a good test

If you are trying a new Mediterranean restaurant, order the hummus. If they have taken care with the simplest dish, the rest will follow. We think ours holds up; come and check. More on our kitchen and the two heritages behind it on the About page.

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